So long, doggy bags

Plus: Which ingredient will be next to skyrocket in price?

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7 min read
So long, doggy bags

Wine should enhance the dining experience, not dampen it. So why is there so much disconnect between guests and restaurateurs when it comes to wine service? We’ve got answers from a wine pro.

And we look everybody’s favorite nightmare chef, Gordon Ramsay, who warns restaurant leaders to avoid being a "busy idiot."

Plus, doggy bags: Who doesn’t love taking home leftovers to heat and eat the next day? Lots of people, that’s who. And restaurants are faced with tons of waste because of it. Pull up a chair for this edition of The Prep.

MICRO BITES

Size matters. The word “appetizer” seems to have fallen out of fashion with menus. The term is being phased out in favor of more colorful verbiage, such as "shareables,” “bites for the table” and “beginnings.” Is it confusing to diners, though? Tell us what you think.

Faster food. There’s been a consistent productivity surge in restaurants since COVID-19 hit, according to a new study. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out why: takeout and delivery.

Battle bots. Chatbots and automated scheduling assistants are increasingly helping restaurants combat the hiring process. "Being able to apply in the middle of the night or using a QR code, I think that certainly appeals to younger generations that are much more tech-savvy in general," says Chad Moutray of the National Restaurant Association.

Flying the coop. Egg dishes are either being taken off menus or marked up in response to the growing egg crisis. The owner of a bakery in Ann Arbor, Mich., is doing both. She says she hates deflating consumer confidence, but, “We are balancing this desire with the desire to provide raises to our staff who are feeling the economic crunch and to keep our business sustainable.” 

That’s amore! Milk Bar’s Christina Tosi’s favorite “splurge” food is Papa John’s thin crust with onions and mushrooms, which she dips in garlic butter and ranch dressing.

SPOTLIGHT

Wine service at restaurants is struggling—but it doesn’t need to be. Snobby sommeliers, poorly trained staff, and sky-high markups as reasons wine programs are turning off customers instead of drawing them in, a recent VinePair article highlighted.

To find out how restaurants can turn things around, The Prep spoke to Zach Geballe, wine educator and co-host of the VinePair Podcast. Here he gives some insight on what needs to be done to fix an issue that should be anything but a downer at the dinner table. -Julien Perry

What do you think is the biggest issue with restaurant wine programs these days? Pricing. Guests are suffering sticker shock with all menu prices, but wine, being a packaged good that the restaurant resells, tends to jump out at guests, particularly with wines by the glass. It's important for restaurants to be aware that retail wine pricing is readily available to diners, so particularly if you're carrying wines that are widely distributed, be very intentional and thoughtful about your pricing.

Where do restaurants get it wrong when it comes to their beverage program, and how can they improve?
Not being able to make an affirmative case for what they offer: It needs to be compelling, of value and connected to the broader concept of the restaurant. If you don't have someone on staff or management who is passionate about beverages, that needs to be your next hire.

If you were consulting on a restaurant's wine program, what's the biggest piece of advice you'd give? 
Be honest about how much wine you intend to sell, and stock accordingly. A big list can look impressive, but not only is it costly to maintain, it can be nearly impossible to educate staff or serve guests efficiently. A smaller, but thoughtful, list is a better bet than a bulkier grab bag of bottles.

WHAT'S THE DISH?

Florida rep wants to end mandatory tips and service fees

Florida lawmakers are considering a bill that could eliminate automatic gratuities for parties of five or fewer and give diners the ability to refuse service charges if they’re unhappy with the service. Rep. Demi Busatta (R-Cape Coral) introduced the amendment after noticing widespread mandatory 20% tips in Miami restaurants. The proposed change is part of a broader bill, HB 535, which also addresses removing nonpaying guests from restaurants. The Florida Restaurant and Lodging Association is pushing back, arguing that service charges are essential for maintaining service quality.

Why it matters: If the amendment passes, it could impact how restaurants handle gratuities and service fees in Florida, changing the dining experience for both guests and business owners. The legislation could also set a precedent for other states facing similar "fee fatigue," potentially leading to similar laws nationwide. (Restaurant Hospitality)


Doggy bags are becoming obsolete

Restaurateurs are noticing that more diners are leaving extra food on their plates, and not because they didn’t enjoy their meal. 

“I will look at the plates coming back to the kitchen and all the food we are throwing out, and I will ask if something is wrong,” says Emmett Burke, who owns two pizzerias in NYC. “I would assume most people would love to have a quarter of a pizza in their fridge.”

Burke told The New York Times that a whopping three-quarters of his customers, mostly Gen Z, don’t take home leftovers. He suspects food apps are the cause. He posits: Who needs leftovers when you don’t plan to heat anything up the next day?

Manhattan restaurateur Jenn Saesue co-signs Burke’s sentiment but does notice that families do take home leftovers. “But if it’s a guy and a girl, and it looks like they are on a date, they will order a lot, but they won’t finish anything,” she says. “And they won’t take it home.”

Why it matters: The average American leaves 53 pounds of food on their plate at restaurants each year, according to 2023 data. It’s important that restaurants strike that balance between satisfying their guests and managing food portions, especially with delivery apps at the ready. (The New York Times)


Gordon Ramsay’s wake-up call for chef-owners

Gordon Ramsay didn’t build a billion-dollar media empire and nearly 100 restaurants by staying in the kitchen. He learned—sometimes the hard way—that running a restaurant is as much about money as it is about food, and that talent alone can turn you into what he calls a “busy idiot.” 

In a recent Forbes interview, Ramsay reflected on the business reckoning he faced in 2012 after a split with his father-in-law, who had managed the company’s finances. “I had to rebuild,” he says. “Had to get to grips with so much: How do you understand P&L? How do you sit with the board of directors in front of the bank?”

Seven years later, he partnered with private equity firm Lion Capital and landed a $100 million investment to grow Gordon Ramsay North America. The catch? He had to give up full ownership. “You don’t want 100% ownership in a tiny pool, but 50% in a big pool.”

Why it matters: Many independent operators get caught in the grind—working long hours, putting out great food, but struggle to build a sustainable business. Ramsay’s message is clear: talent in the kitchen isn’t enough. You have to understand the numbers, know when to ask for help, and think bigger if you want to grow. Otherwise, you’re just staying busy—without actually moving forward. (Forbes

BY THE NUMBERS

1.5% 

The rate at which spending at bars and restaurants has decreased since January. (Marketplace)

ON THE FLY

💠 Cocktail bar food is getting more elaborate 
💠 Is the cost of this ingredient the next to soar?
💠 Best chef-led restaurants in museums
💠 Chain restaurants need to adapt to survive
💠 The only two women leading NYC sushi counters

HEARD & SERVED

"Great restaurants are like brand new baseball gloves—you gotta play catch for a long time before you break it in."

– Restaurateur Danny Meyer on how Gramercy Tavern was hailed as New York's next great restaurant before it even opened, more than 30 years ago.

(🎧CBS)


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